Disclaimer: The information displayed on this website has been adapted and updated with Australian-based information by Animal Care Australia Inc from a similar document by The Dog Group UK. It has been reviewed by representatives from the Animal Care Australia’s Cat Advisory Group.
Responsible Buying to protect yourself from irresponsible breeders and scammers.
Animal Care Australia supports the education of changing buyer awareness to reduce the ability of scammers and irresponsible breeders from profiting off what is every Australian’s right — to own a pet.This page concentrates on the importance of being a responsible buyer. We look at the current steps you can take when buying or adopting a dog to ensure you are getting the right animal for your circumstances and to help reduce the irresponsible ‘underground’ breeding of puppies and kittens.
The responsibility of pet ownerships sits with all of us — not just those breeding animals. We all have an important part to play — none more important than yours, because you should be the animals’ forever home.
The purchase of a new pet can be a big commitment – of time, money and emotions.
Introduction:
When you take on a kitten you are taking responsibility for a pet which may be with you for an average of 13 – 20 years. Most people want a cat that will fit into their lifestyle. How you choose a kitten can have a great effect on both the welfare of the cat throughout its life, and your enjoyment of having it as a pet.
Whether you pay for a kitten or adopt/rescue, whether it is a non-pedigree/pure breed or a pedigree/pure breed, and whether you get it from a shelter, a private home or a registered breeder, there are general things to look out for to ensure you bring home a healthy animal which will live with you happily for many years.
The same principles apply no matter where they come from and your focus should be on:
- Health
- Behaviour
Things to find out before you visit your new pet.
Often the first contact with the person, or organisation from whom you get a kitten is by phone or online. Remember that once you see the kitten it may be hard to resist it, so it is important to find out as much as you can before visiting. A ‘pre-visit’ with no expectation of purchase will also help to take the pressure off all the parties involved and may allow you to go away and think about your purchase if you have concerns.
Note: The questions below are a guide to prompt you to find out important things which could affect their health and wellbeing, and your future relationship with them.
Answers suggesting caution may not be a reason to refuse to take the animal but it can inform you about what to expect or what you may need to do if you take them home (eg, vaccination, de-sexing, worming, etc).
1. WHEN WAS THE KITTEN BORN?
A kitten must not be homed until it is at least 8 weeks old. In fact most responsible breeders and those registered with breeding associations will wait until 12-16 weeks, subject to the breed.
2. WILL YOU BE ABLE TO SEE THE KITTEN WITH ITS MOTHER?
Seeing the kitten with its mother or seeing the mother while she is pregnant, at least once before you decide to purchase helps to avoid kittens which may have been ‘farmed’. Scenarios may vary slightly depending on where you are getting a kitten from and what age it is:
- Pet home: A kitten born into a pet home should be with its mother until at least 8 weeks old and will usually stay with its mother until it finds a new home, so seeing them together should not be problem.
- Breeder: A kitten born to a reputable breeder will probably stay with its mother until it is 12 to 16 weeks old or until it has found a new home, so seeing them together should not be a problem.
- Rescue: Occasionally a rescue may have kittens present without a mother because of difficult circumstances from which they have come. Also, kittens over 8/9 weeks old may be independent of their mothers in a rescue as the mother may have been homed herself once they have been weaned. Rescues also use foster carers to look after cats with kittens so that kittens can grow up in a home environment.
3. WAS THE KITTEN RAISED WITH ITS MOTHER?
Kittens learn much about their approach to life from their mother so it is important to know whether they have been raised with her.
4. WHERE WAS THE KITTEN BORN, AND WHERE DID IT SPEND MOST OF ITS TIME WHEN IT WAS BETWEEN 2 AND 9 WEEKS OLD?
The ideal scenario for your new kitten is to be born into a home among people and for it to experience all of the normal activities that happen there. This social interaction allows it to become used to the home environment and not stressed by it. Of course it will need quiet time out when it is small and appropriate experiences and handling as well. This way it will not view a new home as something to be feared if it is familiar with most of the things which normally happen within a home. A kitten born outside such an environment may not experience normal human home life while still it is young. If a kitten misses this opportunity it may never be fully comfortable living as a pet cat, remaining more aloof.
There is a large responsibility on the person breeding the cat to provide the proper social interaction because it is vital that the kitten has the right experiences early on, before it goes to a new home. Responsible breeders and reputable re-homing services will have procedures in place to do this. It is important to ask about what efforts have been made to give the kitten these experiences, especially if has not been raised in a situation outside of a home environment.
5. HAS THE KITTEN BEEN INTERACTING WITH OTHERS?
A kitten which has been raised alongside others is more likely to have learned appropriate behaviour. This may help it to live with other cats and pets in the future.
6. HAS THE KITTEN BEEN INTERACTING POSITIVELY WITH A CAT OR OTHER CATS?
Why is this important? If you already have a cat or plan to get one in the future, you may want a kitten which has been used to feline friends in the first two months of life, as it will be more likely to be confident around cats in the future.
7. IS ANYTHING KNOWN ABOUT THE FATHER OF THE KITTEN?
Extra information about the father, it’s health and background might be useful.
8. IS THE KITTEN FRIENDLY?
Even if you cannot see the kitten in person, an answer which says the kitten is nervous may make you decide not to go and see it, or at least to be aware there may be a problem when you visit.
9. HAS THE KITTEN INTERACTED POSITIVELY WITH DIFFERENT PEOPLE AND EXPERIENCED SOUNDS, SIGHTS, SMELLS AND SENSATIONS COMMON IN HOUSEHOLDS? (e.g. vacuuming, TV/radio, people coming and going)
Short and frequent interaction with a variety of people (eg, men, women and children of different ages) comprising gentle stroking, lifting and play, is most likely to produce a kitten confident with people. A home is a very complex sensory world full of different sights, smells, sounds and sensations which kittens need to be able to experience as normal and be confident with them.
10. IS THE KITTEN ON SOLID FOOD?
The puppy should be fully weaned (i.e., able to survive without its mother’s milk) before you take it home.
11. WAS THE KITTEN TOTALLY OR PARTIALLY HAND-REARED (FED BY A HUMAN USING A BOTTLE)?
This can affect how they behave, eg, some are very needy, and can be more boisterous and less self-controlled if frustrated.
12. IS THE KITTEN HEALTHY?
Even if you cannot see the kitten as yet, it is worth asking this question. If the person says the kitten has some problems this can give you a warning and you may decide not to not see the kitten, or at least you will be aware of possible problems when you visit. Has it had any veterinary treatment and, if so, will a copy of the records be available? This may also affect future insurance cover.
13. IS THE SPECIFIC BREED KNOWN?
Different breeds have different needs or hereditary concerns. Some breeds have a very dense coat requiring care, some have very little coat (and may need bathing regularly) and some may be more attention-seeking or noisy. There may also be inherited defects which are associated with that particular breed. Finding out this information will enable you to research these things and ask specific questions of the breeder.
14. IS THE PUPPY LIKELY TO BE LONG-HAIRED?
Different breeds have different requirements or traits. Some may be more attention-seeking or noisy (such as Siamese). There may also be inherited defects which are associated with that particular breed. Finding out this information will enable you to research these things and ask specific questions of the breeder..
15. DOES YOUR STATE/TERRITORY HAVE A BREEDERS REGISTER? IF SO, IS THE BREEDER REGISTERED?
Some Australian States/territories now require dog and cast breeders to listed on a breeders register. Request the breeder number from the breeder. This should match the number on any advertisements they are running.
All breeders, are also required to follow standards and guidelines for breeding within their state. Research the title of the Code for breeding in your state and ask the breeder to inform you of that title.
16. IS THE KITTEN REGISTERED WITH A RECOGNISED BREEDERS ASSOCIATION?
If the kitten or it’s parents are registered with any of these bodies there are rules with which the breeder should comply, such as rules about ethical breeding and health, and which breeds they will recognise and register. All should be able to guarantee that the cat is the breed that the breeder says it is. You can check on their websites to see what it should look like and do your research about the breed. The kitten should come with specific paperwork about its pedigree, should be fully vaccinated and may be insured. It will have a registration certificate with a unique registration number and registered name.
17. IF YOU ARE BUYING FROM A BREEDER ADVERTISING ONLINE, CAN YOU SEE A PICTURE OF THE KITTEN?
If the advertiser claims the kitten is of a particular breed, you can check whether the picture corresponds with pictures of that breed – sometimes adverts claim a kitten is a particular breed, but it is not. It might not be important to you whether the kitten is a particular breed or a mixture, but you may pay a pedigree rate for a non-pedigree animal, so make sure that you are getting what is being claimed.
18. a) DOES THE BREED HAVE ANY INHERITED PROBLEMS AND IS THERE A TEST FOR THAT PARTICULAR DISORDER?
b) DOES THE MOTHER OR FATHER HAVE ANY INHERITED DISEASES/PROBLEMS OR HAVE THEY BEEN TESTED FOR CERTAIN PROBLEMS? IF SO, WHAT WERE THE RESULTS?
c) HAS THE KITTEN BEEN TESTED FOR THESE ISSUES?
Once you have chosen a particular breed, do your research. Compare the answers you’ve been provided with that research. Check to ensure whether the breed does have inherited health problems associated with that breed in order to gauge whether the seller is being honest with you. Research what any inherited problems will mean for your kitten as it grows, including the likelihood of ongoing veterinary treatment/visits, etc. This is all vital in ensuring you will be ready should these things flare, giving you peace of mind, and a basis for deciding if this is the right breed for you.
19. HAS THE MOTHER OR FATHER HAD ANY SURGICAL PROCEDURES TO CORRECT FEATURES THAT COULD BE INHERITED BY THE KITTEN?
This is more a common problem in dogs, but very occasionally some cats with physical issues may have to be operated on because of physical problems which may be inherited. These problems can cause pain and discomfort and may have to be surgically corrected.
20. DO YOU INTEND TO BREED FROM THE KITTEN ONCE IT IS OLD ENOUGH?
If you are planning to breed, you should check that it is registered as ‘active’ with the appropriate breeding association/body and that appropriate papers will be available. The breeder may have put limitations on what you can do with the kitten (eg, breeding from it).
VISITING THE KITTEN – Things to look out for and ask when you visit
1. CAN YOU SEE THE KITTEN WITH ITS MOTHER?
While it is recommended to see the kitten with its mother to be sure that it has actually been bred there and not brought in from a kitten mill. (An exception may be a rescue service which has taken on motherless kittens or if the mother has then been homed once the kittens are weaned) some mothers may be very protective of their kittens, so their behaviour may not be as usual. It is advisable to check with the breeder prior to take this into consideration.
2. IS THE MOTHER HEALTHY?
An unhealthy mother may not care for her kittens as well as possible or may pass on disease or health problems to her kittens. An unhealthy mother is also cause for concern regarding the care provided by the owner/breeder. Also ask about the mother’s health history.
3. IS THE MOTHER HAPPY TO INTERACT WITH YOU AND HER KITTENS?
A confident mother, happy to interact with people, is likely to bring up kittens which are friendly and confident too.
4. ARE THERE MANY OTHER CATS OR LITTERS IN THE HOME?
Large numbers of cats and kittens could increase the risk of the spread of disease and lessen the ability of the owner/breeder to keep everything as clean as necessary to minimise this risk and to give each kitten the attention it needs. It can also increase stress among the cats.
Hoarding of cats is also a huge warning sign for you.
5. IS THE KITTEN’S ENVIRONMENT CLEAN? THIS INCLUDES WATER AND FOOD BOWLS, LITTER TRAYS, BED AND THE GENERAL ENVIRONMENT?
Keeping the kittens and environment clean lessens the risk of development and spread of disease and shows that the owner/breeder is helping to maintain the health and welfare of the cats and kittens.
6. HAS THE KITTEN — BEEN TREATED FOR WORMS and BEEN TREATED FOR FLEAS?
The kitten may or may not have been treated for worms and may or may not have fleas. Find out and take advice from your vet if you take on the kitten. If the kitten has been treated, write down when and with what products so you can let your vet know.
7. WILL THE KITTEN BE VACCINATED WHEN YOU TAKE IT HOME?
If you buy a kitten from a reputable pedigree breeder, it is likely to be at least 12/13 weeks old and will come fully or partially vaccinated. If you are buying a non-pedigree kitten it is likely to be about 8/9 weeks old and may not be vaccinated. Some rescue services will also give a first vaccination. This is not a problem – it just means that you will be responsible for ensuring it has its full course of vaccinations to protect it from disease. If the kitten is vaccinated make sure you also receive the vaccination certificate.
8. DOES THE KITTEN LOOK HEALTHY?
These are general pointers about the kitten’s health and give an indication as to how well it has been cared for. While a few fleas may not prevent a purchase, it is worth knowing they are there. Other things, such as an upset stomach, weepy eyes, or problems with movement may be more serious and may prompt you to decline to buy, or to take more advice. Look at the health of the other kittens for signs of problems too.
9. WILL THE KITTEN BE DE-SEXED WHEN YOU TAKE IT HOME?
If you obtain the kitten from a responsible breeder or from a rescue service it may already be de-sexed. If not, then it is your responsibility to do this unless intending to breed with the cat later on. Kittens generally reach puberty at around 5 to 6 months – it is very important to have them de-sexed to prevent unwanted litters.
10. WILL THE KITTEN BE MICROCHIPPED WHEN YOU TAKE IT HOME?
Microchipping is the best form of identification for your cat and is required in all states/territories in Australia, except the Northern Territory and Tasmania. If your cat becomes lost and then found elsewhere this can considerably increase the chances of you being reunited with it. Most kittens (except those chipped by responsible breeders, breeder association members and rescue services) will not be microchipped when you purchase them. If the kitten is microchipped, make sure you get the information, keep it safe, register the kitten to your address and make sure you update the information if you move.
11. IS THE KITTEN INSURED?
Many breeders and some rescue services now home a kitten with a temporary insurance certificate which covers its first weeks with you, so you are covered for certain veterinary fees should it become ill. If this temporary cover is not provided, you can buy pet insurance independently as soon as you have the kitten Having insurance will help to cover the cost of veterinary care and will not hinder treatment because of costs.
12. WHAT FOOD IS THE KITTEN EATING?
When a kitten goes to a new home it is a major change to its life and can be stressful. If there are some things which can be kept constant, such as the food it is eating, this will lessen the stress and help to prevent stomach upsets. Ask for information about the kitten’s normal food and before you purchase the kitten, ensure you buy the same (if you don’t already have that brand etc).
13. WHAT LITTER/TOILET ROUTINE IS BEING USED?
A kitten may be toilet trained when it comes to you and is likely to prefer the specific method or location it has learned to use. Keeping the same routine will be reassuring and help it to recognise its new toilet area, and minimise stress.
14. BY THE END OF YOUR VISIT WAS THE KITTEN:?
- Happy to approach you/to be approached by you?
- Happy to be handled and stroked?
- Happy to play with toys with you?
At first kittens may be cautious/wary of you and that is normal. However, if the kitten relaxes and is happy as described, then it is likely to continue to be so in your home.
15. BY THE END OF YOUR VISIT WAS THE KITTEN NERVOUS OF YOU?
If the kitten does not relax and is still nervous at the end of your visit (presuming you have acted gently and quietly and given it a chance to investigate you), it may be an indication that the kitten is more likely to remain nervous. This may indicate that the kitten needs the right environment to make it feel secure – this may not be a home with lots of children and other animals.
16. BY THE END OF YOUR VISIT WAS THE KITTEN VERY FEARFUL OF YOU, HIDING, AND/OR HISSING IF APPROACHED?
Think very carefully about taking on this kitten. There is a likelihood that it may never become a friendly, confident pet. It may never enjoy being a pet and so will have a poor quality of life if it is expected to do so. It may be difficult to walk away, but think carefully what you want out of having a pet cat and about the cat’s future welfare too.
IMPORTANT REMINDERS FOR AFTER YOU HAVE YOUR NEW PET HOME:
One of the first things to do is change the owner details on the microchip registry and register your pet with your local council.
Then set up some reminders for:
- Vaccination updates
- Flea/tick/parasite treatment
- Heart & worming regime
Tip:
While Animal Care Australia does not support ‘compulsive buying’ of pets.
If you do decide to take the kitten straight away, ask the breeder for some of its bedding as the familiar smell with be reassuring when everything else is changing, and will help the kitten with travel and to settle into its new home. If you haven’t already purchased the same food and litter than what is used by the breeder, see if they will give you a small amount to get you by until you can purchase it.
Take the kitten home in a secure carrier (preferably one which has front and top opening (or it divides in half allowing the top to be taken off) as this will help with future trips to the vet.
